the AVANT GARDE magician
BY ALFONSO CORONA & ISA TRAVERSO BURGER, **originally published by Distrikt Magazine 02/2006**
Nicolas Mirzayantz is the SVP of Fine Fragrances & Beauty Care of International Flavors and Fragrances Inc, which collaborated with Visionaire for an outstanding art publication that you can smell and taste. You would think that his job is basic, but it’s nothing quite. He is devoted to pushing the limits of scents and fragrances by leading, with a very talented team, a business dedicated to giving taste and flavor to scents and emotions. The same way you use a breath mint the size of a postage stamp, these inventions dissolve in your mouth as well, but instead of mint, they can taste like nothing you ever tried, or as weird as eggs and potatoes. It’s referred to as edible art, because it includes photographs associated with the taste and smell. For example, there’s a “Power” taste, which mixes the flavor of sea spray and sweat as surfer Laird Hamilton envisioned it; the photo of his back decorates this one.
Did you ever think of savoring sweat? Now you can. This is what Nicolas told Distrikt about this haute couture craft:
What are the most desired taste and smell among people?
Flowers are popular. People exposed to flowers always remember a certain scent; in France it’s the most popular. Sensuality and femininity are wonderful because they give the freedom to explore some notes that the palette is not used to, in terms of new territory. Tastes include fruity notes, skin, sensual. Taste is more regional, and more fascinating than smell alone.
How wide is the variety?
When you look at variety, you need to realize what are the expectations when you’re growing up. Litchi is what my son is requesting, at 4 years of age; I didn’t know
what Litchi was at that age. What are the expectations when you look at beverages, yogurts, etc? Some are doing contrasting foods together in strange combinations. What are people looking for? We focus on that.
How do you look at the market?
The European market is different, historically fruitier. Europeans are much more floral and sensual. Latin American countries are much more close to European than American influence. Brazil, for example, is much more sensual, like Mexico. The style depends on the tone and expressions.
What would be the first 3 steps to design a taste or smell? First is the brand, is it from scratch or are we replicating?
What is the expression of the brand; consumers are driven by emotions, what is the emotional connection?
It has to be in harmony -the fragrance and the taste-. Then, we get all the different players together, building up exponentially. We are out to emotionally connect the concept and how does it bring differentiation to our brand. Flavorists are the key drivers of the preference of a product. No matter the advertising, packaging, etc, you have to love the product.
Is it an urban myth that Asian fragrances are being remade or pulled up?
People say they smelled something peculiar of the late 70s; it’s true that you use formulas that were effective in the past. Our world is similar to fashion; you see the return to the earlier periods. Essential notes that were popular come back. Our scents and tastes can be built upon the heritage, connected to the past, but with evolution.
Is there anything in this planet that you’ve never smelled before, or tasted before?
The brand new Christian Dior pour homme is something I never smelled before. It’s a real creation. They used some ingredients never before used for men repertoire. It’s a surprise that made sense.
You mention that you have to talk to designers, developers, flavorists, and brand managers. Who is in charge? The people managing the brand and the illustration of their vision. Graphic designers are important tools. Fragrances and flavor play the major role though. The sense of smell is the most developed in humans; the first sense we perceive is smell; even in animals. It’s a powerful sense we don’t fully appreciate. We have worked for the last 20 years in emotion drivers. We pay attention to details, colors and textures. When people smell ingredients, what is the first color that comes to their mind, for example.
What is the perfume that lasts longest?
Aromatic elixirs last all day. So do Oriental scents with amber and patchouli.
If you increase the quality of the product will you have a perfect perfume? Yes, we go back to traditional roots, with modernity, exploring ingredients never used, being natural. The market is overwhelmed; only innovative products will stand the test of time.
Is it important to make the perfume last longer?
In the US market more than in Europe; lighter fragrances are prefered by some consumers because they are lighter, not demonstrative. Are you wearing something more elegant or outstanding and flashy? It all depends. The lasting fragrance of Dolce Gabbana explores more of that than other brands.
Are you still using the skunk blend as a fixer?
No, for many years it hasn’t been used. It was powerful and potent. Is the technology able to replenish completely? No, regulations need to make effective messages, safe for the environment and consumers. You can recreate special effects.
If someone wanted to create a personalized perfume, how much would it cost?
A fortune.
More than $100 thousand?
We don’t personalize perfumes, only some exceptions. But it costs too much. If you look at watches, and other categories like such, is aligned with what’s happening to our same industry. That too costs.
You need to upgrade?
I think it’s important to go back to quality. The consumer has a good feel for quality and it’s interesting that brands created a long time ago are still selling. The wonderful ingredients used to make them; it’s thanks to that. It’s perfect timing for the perfume industry to use superior ingredients, mixing it with creativity and exploring new territories. Consumers are seeking for customization and experience, and it’s about time to respond as it’s happening in other industries.
Does it depend on each person if the scent smells different?
Scents change depending on the person, even what you eat will affect it. Some skins are drier, warmer; it also depends on the environment, the climate. I distinguish a fragrance in Paris differently than in New York. You react and smell differently because it’s about alchemy.
Can it be decoded?
Can you recommend something for a dry skin, fruit eating person in Canada? It would be very difficult. What is interesting is how someone scents. The world of smell and taste is amazing and we need to understand it more.
I was using my wife’s shaving gel and I liked it very much, but it was because it reminded me of my favorite drink when I was younger, in France. I relive the fantastic experience every time, that’s how powerful it is. How do people feel? We want to develop fragrances that resonate with emotions.
Today we are breathing, not smelling. We tend to be protective and afraid of emotions. How do you smell yourself? A century ago, ‘I cannot smell them’ meant you couldn’t stand a person. So much effort goes into making the exact fragrance, people don’t realize how hard, yet fascinating, it is.
